What about a piece of rubber (?) around the edge of the inside if the hole. Only the rubber would touch the sphere.

[quote=""N2darkness""]Thanks for the clarification, I'm pretty sure I can get close to the 9.9, it will just involve a little math

There is also 2 other changes I plan making to these to help improve accuracy (at least to the SSW statue) one is to make the stone divots a little more pronounce on the ends of the 6 rectangular pieces around the edge will also stick out passed the slanted areas just a little bit making them look separate. I was also planning on making the entire thing taller, closer to 5 inches instead of the 3 it currently is.

I'm going to also look into John's suggestions for where the Palantir sits. As it is currently just a 2 inch hole and the sphere rests upon the edges of that circle I can either put a radius or chamfer on the top edge to reduce the sharp edge that may make a mark. Felt could be applied, but I'm afraid you would see it as it would raise the sphere slightly. If anyone else has some suggestions I'm all ears.[/quote]

Won't a radius or a chamfer be more or less visible just like the felt, i.e. raising the sphere just a little?

Unless you plan on ...well, how would you attach them so as not to raise the sphere?

[quote=""Deimos""]Won't a radius or a chamfer be more or less visible just like the felt, i.e. raising the sphere just a little?

Unless you plan on ...well, how would you attach them so as not to raise the sphere?[/quote]

Here is a scrap of wood I drilled a hole into as an example. The arrow is pointed to where the sphere is resting on.



Here is another one with a chamfer and the arrow on the right shows where the sphere will rest and the arrow on the right shows where felt could be applied and I think just slight raise the sphere. A radius will not work as you will see that. The larger diameter the hole you start with though will drop the sphere deeper into the base, so I want to keep it relatively small.

That's looks like it would work really well.
And even if the sphere drops a bit, the felt, if its a good quality, will have some thickness to raise the sphere, even if only a little bit, especially if you double it.

I guess more e xp ensive, but black velvet would be nice..... Just saying

N2d's design is good, especially if the recess around the centre hole can be a reasonable match to the shape of the sphere.
Sticky-backed black felt can be bought on Ebay. Cheaper from Ebay UK for some reason.
It would not need to cover the entire recess. Three or four strips about an inch wide arranged around the inside of the recess would do the job and I don't think you would see them.

[quote=""Dreamspheres""]N2d's design is good, especially if the recess around the centre hole can be a reasonable match to the shape of the sphere.
Sticky-backed black felt can be bought on Ebay. Cheaper from Ebay UK for some reason.
It would not need to cover the entire recess. Three or four strips about an inch wide arranged around the inside of the recess would do the job and I don't think you would see them. [/quote]

Or just regular felt and some rubber/contact cement or two sided [carpet] tape.

[quote=""N2darkness""]It's hollow, but there is also some support blocks in there to keep it from sagging due to the weight. At least with the obsidian it was quite heavy. ....[/quote]

You're definitely going to make them able to support a 10lb object, correct? (even though John's sphere weighs half that).

I will be swapping spheres, so sometimes I will have the "quiescent" (obsidian) sphere on display.

N2D that looks fantastic. Please add me to the list

[quote=""Deimos""]You're definitely going to make them able to support a 10lb object, correct? (even though John's sphere weighs half that).

I will be swapping spheres, so sometimes I will have the "quiescent" (obsidian) sphere on display.[/quote]

I put a simple 4 sided box underneath the edges of the hole. I'm pretty sure you could stand on it and it will hold your weight ,so the obsidian should be fine.

[quote=""TheWhiteHand""]N2D that looks fantastic. Please add me to the list [/quote]

I sure will!

Do we know how tall the pedestal was overall? I wonder what it would take for me to build the bottom of this... Maybe a high density foam topped with granite?

My guess is 4.5 to 5 feet tall and over 2 feet wide at the base. I believe Christopher Lee is a few inches over 6 feet and if you look at the statue the top of the Palantir is about the same height as his arm out streched. The foam would work, probably would have to hard coat it for durability though.

I hope to be starting on these sometime next week and will be contacting everybody to see if there still interested and if additional changes are wanted. Or you can email me directly if you chose @ astivison@gmail.com

So with the new modifications, how tall would a sphere be off the shelf when sitting on one of these?

Depending on the size of the sphere and the height of the new base being 5 inches tall. I'd guess somewhere between 11 and 12 inches.

Hmm, I'll have to do more measuring then!

Deimos wrote:[quote=""N2darkness""]I'm curious as to the customizations you would like. As I'm now looking at making at least 3, I'm wondering on the variations.

1)Slightly larger diameter ...20 inches. I have a round 24 inch end table, (which may just become the centerpiece of the whole room )

2) a larger design (the lines).
Question: (well, preliminary statement, then the question)...you can see that the "chiseled" design is 3 squares, each one offset by 30 degrees.
(there are a few extra lines drawn connecting some of the adjacent corners)

Your palantir has a diameter of 6.5 inches; mine is a 6 inch diameter.
When I drew my squares I made them slightly larger than yours, even accounting for your palantir being larger than mine.
So, how long is one of your squares on a side?
Mine are 9.9 inches, and that length is pretty much what I would want to go with for the size of the squares.[/quote]

The previous interest list was:

Valkrist
Idril
Diemos
RevAnakin
Arwyniel

I think Rev is out as he has passed on the Palantir and Arwyniel may just be purchasing mine and she also has a size restraint. Does anyone else have any size restrictions? Or does Deimos's increased sizes and proportions sound good to everybody else?

I've picked up the material to start, I just would like to know everyone's input before I start.

These all will be slightly taller that the 3 inch one that mine is currently and shooting for 5 to 6 inches tall.

N2darkness wrote: Arwyniel may just be purchasing mine and she also has a size restraint. Does anyone else have any size restrictions? Or does Deimos's increased sizes and proportions sound good to everybody else?

I've picked up the material to start, I just would like to know everyone's input before I start.

These all will be slightly taller that the 3 inch one that mine is currently and shooting for 5 to 6 inches tall.

If you are wanting to sell your current one, I think that definitely works best for my set up. The only thing I was wondering was if it was possible to put a soft covering around the hole to help protect the Palantir from scratches?

Arwyniel wrote:

N2darkness wrote: Arwyniel may just be purchasing mine and she also has a size restraint. Does anyone else have any size restrictions? Or does Deimos's increased sizes and proportions sound good to everybody else?

I've picked up the material to start, I just would like to know everyone's input before I start.

These all will be slightly taller that the 3 inch one that mine is currently and shooting for 5 to 6 inches tall.

If you are wanting to sell your current one, I think that definitely works best for my set up. The only thing I was wondering was if it was possible to put a soft covering around the hole to help protect the Palantir from scratches?

I can definitely add that, but it will leave the wood around there raw. If the felt covered the entire area it should be much of a problem.

N2darkness wrote:
I can definitely add that, but it will leave the wood around there raw. If the felt covered the entire area it should be much of a problem.

I leave it up to your best judgement, I trust you.

N2darkness wrote:

Deimos wrote:[quote=""N2darkness""]...
I think Rev is out as he has passed on the Palantir and Arwyniel may just be purchasing mine and she also has a size restraint. Does anyone else have any size restrictions? Or does Deimos's increased sizes and proportions sound good to everybody else?
...

[/quote]

Yes, I am out for the time being. Focusing all my current time, effort, and money on the move and making the move easier, i.e. getting rid/selling stuff I currently have

I'm still in for this. I've currently got my palantir still in its shipping paper.

I don't have any specific requirements, I'd just like John's palantir to sit nicely on it.

Still in as well, but like Arwyniel, my only concern is that the hole in which the Palantir will sit has some kind of protective covering so that John's beautiful work will not get scratched up. Other than that, I'm good with the agreed-upon dimensions.

Just out of curiosity, N2, why are you selling yours? Need the space or are you making one for yourself with the newer dimensions?

I want a newer one that is a little higher. I'll be starting on these this weekend and posting progress pic in this thread. I'll make sure everyone including Arwyniel's has the chamfer for the sphere to rest. I'll also look for some felt for the area as well.

Alright work has begun. After a few emails back and forth with Deimos I have her's figured out and then I started work on mine which is a few inches smaller in diameter. These have had the lines routed in and cut out to final dimensions. Here are a few photos to see the size difference with my sphere which is 6.5 inches. Also after doing some other figuring, 5 inches tall will not look correct, and they will be closer to 3.5 - 4 inches tall.

Here they are side by side with the measurements indicated on them.



Here is the smaller 18 inch diameter one with the sphere



And the other larger one with the 20 inch diameter.



Please Valkrist and Idril, let me know which one you prefer. I will probably default to the 20 inch as that was somewhat decided last time, but want you to see there is a choice in case you change your mind.

Thank you, N2, for the side-by-side views and also for both views with the sphere situated.
I still like the 20 inch version and (from viewing the Orthanc scene again and your pics) believe the 20 inch to be closest to screen accurate.
(However, I well understand your and Arwyniel's "space constraints" and why you had to go a little smaller.)

Excellent work! Squares pattern turned out "poifectly" ...you are very skilled with that there router of yours .

Deimos wrote:Thank you, N2, for the side-by-side views and also for both views with the sphere situated.
I still like the 20 inch version and (from viewing the Orthanc scene again and your pics) believe the 20 inch to be closest to screen accurate.
(However, I well understand your and Arwyniel's "space constraints" and why you had to go a little smaller.)

Excellent work! Squares pattern turned out "poifectly" ...you are very skilled with that there router of yours .

Thanks! I made templates to fit my router base to fit snug and made a perfectly straight line, just a lot of re-positioning.

I have to say very well done N2d. I can appreciate the skill, effort and many hours you have put into this. This was never going to an easy task and I hope others will see the time and patience you have put into this.
Very well executed, precise work. This takes an enthusiasm that only comes from dedicated craftsmen with a great eye for detail. You have made it absolutely right. Congrats.
The router work must have been nerve-wracking. Hope you got a great deal of satisfaction/relief when it all turned out well.

Dreamspheres wrote:I have to say very well done N2d. I can appreciate the skill, effort and many hours you have put into this. This was never going to an easy task and I hope others will see the time and patience you have put into this.
Very well executed, precise work. This takes an enthusiasm that only comes from dedicated craftsmen with a great eye for detail. You have made it absolutely right. Congrats.
The router work must have been nerve-wracking. Hope you got a great deal of satisfaction/relief when it all turned out well.

Thank you very much John!

These is definite work figuring out the lay out and then the actual routing took some additional work to figure out how to make it repeatable (if only I had a CNC )

After I get the next 2 tops cut out and routed they will move a lot faster.

Some more progress to share. I got all the rest of the pieces cut out and assembled yesterday and filled all the other areas with expanding foam last night. Today I cut the foam to shape. I just need to cover with Bondo, add the divots to the ends, and prime and paint.

N2darkness wrote:Some more progress to share. I got all the rest of the pieces cut out and assembled yesterday and filled all the other areas with expanding foam last night. Today I cut the foam to shape. I just need to cover with Bondo, add the divots to the ends, and prime and paint.

ooooo ....Christmas in July! ..Can hardly wait for completion and shipment!

They look so amazing...N2, I kid you not, with John's Palantir in place, my friends will be drop-jawed with admiration ...and envy .
(Don't forget that mine will be primed but not painted)

I'm very excited for this project as well. I think John's palantir is going to look killer with N2's awesome stand.

Two questions - Deimos: when you want yours only primed is that because you prefer the rougher, non-glossy finish, or do you have plans to do the final painting yourself?

N2: when do you estimate these will be ready to ship? I mentioned to you I will be away in August and am trying to gauge if I will be receiving this in July or September.

The short answer to your question is that I want to get more experience painting/finishing things like props and models.
If that sounds like I'm practicing on N2's creation, well, that's true.
But he and I already discussed it and I am confident I will not ruin it.

I will still go for the glossy top surface, but I may am leaning toward a rougher vertical surface.
(And without looking back at all the pics N2 posted, maybe that is what he did, and plans to do with the current ones).
I will have to study the scenes from the interior Orthanc sequences to see how the pedestal is finished.

But mainly, I like making things (tho' I am a super amateur at it) and this is an ideal situation to get a little better at one aspect of it.
Plastic wood/fillers and primer can hide a multitude of sins...but the final finish on a project is there for all to see.
And that is the spur (one of several) for wanting to improve.

Hey Val,

I'm goona shoot for shipping no later than the 23rd of this month. Is that cutting it to close? If so let me know and I can try to get it finised earlier.

I did get the first layer of Bondo on all 4 bases, just have a lot of sading and another layer before priming. (Deimos, I wrote a not as a reminder )

Very cool, Deimos, looking forward to seeing your efforts.

N2, I will be leaving on August 5th. The 23rd sounds early enough in theory, but the customs office at our border has been dropping the ball lately with some big delays so I'm not sure if just under two weeks is sufficient time. I don't want to rush you, so we can always leave it for after I get back on the 26th of August. Up to you as you know best how early you can have one of these done, but I also don't want the ladies that ordered these as well to feel as if I am jumping the queue.

VAl and N2....I am excited for this but, really, I can wait.
N2, you can ship EVERYBODY'S platform ahead of mine if you so choose, or if it works out better for others' schedules.
I are not going anywhere soon, just enjoying Phoenix in the lovely 110F temps here (40% humidity) ....

Let's see where I end up this weekend and I'll email you Val to see how you want to proceed.

It too has been very hot here as well. In the high 90's. I do have an insulated garage, but no air conditioning. This week we are starting to cool down to the mid 80's and that should be some relief.

There is a queue?

I'm not in a hurry. Don't worry on my account

Thank you, ladies, you are the best.

Update.....

Well I have already talked with Val about not being able to meet his deadline for shipping before his trip. I ran into a bit of a delay last weekend trying to figure out the best way to add the deep/large divots to the ends. I had the right bit, but not the right tool. I took the opportunity to order a tool on my wish list (Foredom rotary tool) think of it like a Dremel on steroids and has much more power and capabilities.

I had finished all the bondo work and there was upwards of 4 layers applied to get an even coating and lot and I mean LOTS of sanding got me here:




This week/weekend I received my new tool and got all the divots completed and more sanding as well as working on the primer coats right now with a little spot puddying. I'm hoping to finish primering today and top coats next weekend as well as finding boxes to ship these in.

No doubt Val is a little disappointed at the delay, but I'm quite certain he prefers your ensuring every aspect of this prop meets your standards of quality craftsmanship.
All of us with Indy's Red Book waited 3-4 months for delivery, and that was for something that was well beyond a "first run."
So, speaking for myself, take whatever time you need until you're satisfied.

How did you do the texturing on the side...i.e. what material(s) and what tool(s)?

They all look excellently screen accurate.

Deimos wrote:No doubt Val is a little disappointed at the delay, but I'm quite certain he prefers your ensuring every aspect of this prop meets your standards of quality craftsmanship.
All of us with Indy's Red Book waited 3-4 months for delivery, and that was for something that was well beyond a "first run."
So, speaking for myself, take whatever time you need until you're satisfied.

How did you do the texturing on the side...i.e. what material(s) and what tool(s)?

They all look excellently screen accurate.

Thank you! I just want to keep people informed as well as not take forever

As for the texturing I use a roughly 1/2 sphere bit with some pretty aggressive teeth followed up with a slightly larger stone to help smooth it out before hand sanding.

Here is the bits with the Foredom handle that has a collet that will accept a larger 1/4 inch shank.

I can't see the pics for some reason.

Anyways no prob N2D. Sounds like an interesting addition to your toolbox.

How on EARTH do you keep your workshop so clean? Far too tidy for my liking....I would hate to do anything in case I made a mess.

That looks absolutely fantastic, and yes, more than worth the delay. I'm almost torn on the matte versus glossy finish, but I will defer to N2's artistic talent on that and what he deems to be the most faithful to the movies.

John, perhaps you can answer this in your own thread but, any further work/insight on the Silmarils project?

Dreamspheres wrote:How on EARTH do you keep your workshop so clean? Far too tidy for my liking....I would hate to do anything in case I made a mess.

Maybe its from the photos, but there is definitely a mess in there. I usually try and tidy up between projects, but to me it needs some good organizing.

Valkrist wrote:That looks absolutely fantastic, and yes, more than worth the delay. I'm almost torn on the matte versus glossy finish, but I will defer to N2's artistic talent on that and what he deems to be the most faithful to the movies.

The current color is just the primer. I still need to base coat and have a few cans of the same black I used for the crown bases. I do have some matte finish I can top coat in, but it won't look quite like this. You need some sort of protective finish otherwise you will see fingerprints. I was going for a semi-gloss finish unless someone wants something different.

These look really great!

N2darkness wrote:still need to base coat and have a few cans of the same black I used for the crown bases. I do have some matte finish I can top coat in, but it won't look quite like this. You need some sort of protective finish otherwise you will see fingerprints. I was going for a semi-gloss finish unless someone wants something different.

(Looking ahead for when I have to do mine...)
Are you doing semi-gloss throughout,i.e., top and sides?
Does spray paint (especially semi-gloss and gloss) require any kind of clear topcoat? (I'm thinking it doesn't as it's an enamel and dries pretty hard), but just wondering how you do it.

Deimos wrote:

N2darkness wrote:still need to base coat and have a few cans of the same black I used for the crown bases. I do have some matte finish I can top coat in, but it won't look quite like this. You need some sort of protective finish otherwise you will see fingerprints. I was going for a semi-gloss finish unless someone wants something different.

(Looking ahead for when I have to do mine...)
Are you doing semi-gloss throughout,i.e., top and sides?
Does spray paint (especially semi-gloss and gloss) require any kind of clear topcoat? (I'm thinking it doesn't as it's an enamel and dries pretty hard), but just wondering how you do it.

The spray paint does not require a top coat, but it is rather difficult to acheive an even sheen with higher gloss. That is why I top coat with an HVLP (high volume low pressure) sprayer with a water based polyurethane. It leaves a much better appearance and also protects a little more.

I'm covering the entire thing this way, but you could very any way you chose.

N2darkness wrote:

Deimos wrote:

N2darkness wrote:still need to base coat and have a few cans of the same black I used for the crown bases. I do have some matte finish I can top coat in, but it won't look quite like this. You need some sort of protective finish otherwise you will see fingerprints. I was going for a semi-gloss finish unless someone wants something different.

(Looking ahead for when I have to do mine...)
Are you doing semi-gloss throughout,i.e., top and sides?
Does spray paint (especially semi-gloss and gloss) require any kind of clear topcoat? (I'm thinking it doesn't as it's an enamel and dries pretty hard), but just wondering how you do it.

The spray paint does not require a top coat, but it is rather difficult to acheive an even sheen with higher gloss. That is why I top coat with an HVLP (high volume low pressure) sprayer with a water based polyurethane. It leaves a much better appearance and also protects a little more.

I'm covering the entire thing this way, but you could very any way you chose.

Thank you...I've been thinking for the past year about getting a HVLP sprayer .... I guess that decision has just been finalized. ...meaning, I get to buy a new tool also!