Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

2
Heya!

I have a can of RWax and I have found it difficult to apply to my helms. With obvious reasons, they are shaped and not a flat blade.

That said, I have no clue how you are supposeto do it. I've heard some people coat there fingers and apply it that way. I tried that, but the wax didn't really cling to my fingers and it took a lot more time to do. I have been using a soft cloth, wiping the wax on the cloth and coating it with the cloth. This seems ineffiecent as well, because half of the wax remains on the cloth and youcan't get it off until you wash it. It also becomes dirty.

If anyone could shed some light on this, that would be great.
Valar morghulis

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

4
FelMarWETA wrote:I'd like to know too...
The oily stuff is on most of the swords, is the wax better than the oil?

I can witness as I have bought a can about 1 year ago : DO NOT use it on steel blades !!!!!!! This is a great material for anything else (like leather if you use it very sparingly) But I have used some on my Albion Armorers Atlantean Conan Sword (which is made of a quite good quality steel, certainly better than UC MC ones) and about 2-3 months later, some small rust marks have appeared (and I don't live in a particularly humid region).

Now this is your choice, I will never re-use it on any of my steel blades.
UC Sting ; UC Sting Scabbard ; UC Glamdring ; UC Narsil ; UC Shards of Narsil (2735/5000) ; UC MC Sting (323/3000) ; UC MC Glamdring (105/1000) ; UC Anduril UE + scabbard ; UC Herugrim ; UC Uruk-Hai Scimitar ; Kropserkel Gondorian Vambraces ; IndyProps Redbook of Westmarch ; IndyProps Thror's Map ; NC Crown of Elessar ; NC Evenstar ; NC Phial of Galadriel ; MR The One Ring of Sauron 1887/2500 ; Danbury Minas Tirith & Barad Dur ; Knife of Sharkû the warg rider; The Sauron sized One Ring ; Albion Armorers Conan's Atlantean Sword (61/1000)
my props collection : http://www.yourprops.com/view_items.php ... e=oldtobby

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

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elrondelendil wrote:Now you scared my ass off!!! I always heard RWAX was "the BEST" antirust stuff on the planet, above UCs!

So if u dont apply Rwax (did u apply it correctly??) what do u use to protect ur investment?

you asked, I answered :confused1
Yes, of course I used it correctly, I meticulously read the specifications on the leaflet given with the can : apply it very sparingly with a soft cloth ... to be sure I have even used it another time on another of my tempered steel blades, the result is the same.

Noone has never invented something better than oil (for my part, I use locksmith oil). You don't have to use too much of it : apply only few drops of it with a soft cloth about 2 times per year, and this will be perfect.:thumbsup:
UC Sting ; UC Sting Scabbard ; UC Glamdring ; UC Narsil ; UC Shards of Narsil (2735/5000) ; UC MC Sting (323/3000) ; UC MC Glamdring (105/1000) ; UC Anduril UE + scabbard ; UC Herugrim ; UC Uruk-Hai Scimitar ; Kropserkel Gondorian Vambraces ; IndyProps Redbook of Westmarch ; IndyProps Thror's Map ; NC Crown of Elessar ; NC Evenstar ; NC Phial of Galadriel ; MR The One Ring of Sauron 1887/2500 ; Danbury Minas Tirith & Barad Dur ; Knife of Sharkû the warg rider; The Sauron sized One Ring ; Albion Armorers Conan's Atlantean Sword (61/1000)
my props collection : http://www.yourprops.com/view_items.php ... e=oldtobby

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

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I bought a can of Ren Wax about a year ago and used it on about a third of my UC display swords. While it takes a great deal of effort to apply it to a point that brings the blade to a shine once again, to date I have found nothing wrong with the blades to which it was applied, and certainly no rust.

While I think oil helps to protect a blade just as much as the wax seems to do, I guess the disadvantage of the oil if you happen to touch the blade is that it needs to be reapplied, as well as leaving a residue on your hands, whereas the wax coated blade will merely incur a smudge that can be fixed with a quick wipe.

Just for the record, the other blades I have are coated in oil, so I am not really selling one method over the other here, just that they both work for me and that the wax did not cause problems for me.

I will agree with Thorin however, in that the wax is next to useless (or too difficult to use,) on a complex shape like a helm. I used a tiny amount on the front and rear wings of my Elendil Helm, but everywhere else I just used oil.

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

12
Yeah, oil and wax don't mix well at all. Buffing means to rub the cloth against the metal in tight circular motions while applying slight pressure, though doing it lenghtwise down the blade for short distances works just as well. When the wax is first applied to steel, it will leave a whiteish dull coating that looks like grease. You have to buff this coat into a shine with a cloth, and it takes a lot of work.

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

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As Foe-Hammer hinted at, the only way to be sure is to be as thorough as possible, and to use a pattern when buffing. By this I mean start at the hilt, for example, and work your way in small consecutive areas toward the tip of the blade. When you get there, simply turn the sword over and work your way back down the other side. As mentioned, the pattern doesn't really matter, you just have to do your best to be sure the entire blade is coated. Once it becomes clear, it helps to remember where you have applied the wax and where you have not, thus a pattern is needed, not just random spots.

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

17
I think the reason why your Albion sword began to rust is because it is made of a different material then the stainless steel display swords that the majority of the people here have. I have read that you need to re-apply the wax constantly ... about once a week for it to keep your blade clean and rust-free.

I would recommend that anyone with carbon blades, to use some kind of gun oil or similar substance. Its easier to apply and while you have to re-apply after every use, its much easier to use. Make sure you wipe the excess off... leaving only a thin coat on the blade. Especially if you have a scabbard!
Valar morghulis

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

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I can't think of any reason too much oil would be bad, except in that eventually enough of it might collect on the tip of the blade and drip down onto your floor or shelf. An excess of any liquid, even one as slow moving as oil, will succumb to gravity. Inside a scabbard, I don't think you would want a small pool of oil collecting inside at the bottom as this would at some point seep into the material and possibly damage or stain it.

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

24
You've got it!

You need not worry about the anything Stainless steel. Those are tough and will resist rust for quite sometime. Its the helms and MC swords that you need to worry about. Of course it never hurt stainless steel. But I prefer to keep my wax for the helms :)

If you've still got questions, keep on asking.
Valar morghulis

Re: Renaissance Wax Guide any1?

26
The regular series is made of stainless steel. As im sure you can tell by the name, it doesn't rust as easily as carbon steel...its more resistant to moisture. Thats not to say that it wont rust, because we've had members swords rust if the blade was touched and never wiped clean... over a long period of time.

You can still put thewax on the stainless steel.... and it will make your blades even more resistant.

However, should anyone touch my swords, my stainless steel ones, I spray windex onto a soft cloth and wipe off any finger prints then go over the areas with a soft dry cloth to make sure that none of the windex remains on the blade.

Cheers!
Valar morghulis
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